Priest holes and pints is a video about the clues that have been left in some of the oldest pubs in Wales about the attitudes of ordinary people to the reformation.
We visit the White Hart inn, in Llangybi which is built on the site of an ancient monastery so has its roots in the church. It was also owned by Henry VIII but also has a priest hole. What secrets does it hold to give away the loyalties of the people who lived there? How did the Robin Hood Inn, in Monmouth manage to act as a secret Catholic chapel for over 100 years?
This fascinating story will give you a peep behind the closed doors of Monmouthshire. Sight of an unintentionally clandestine life perused by its inhabitants as they tried to make sense of the changes that were happening in the church. History on your doorstep has never been so vivid, and best of all, you can have a pint afterwards. In this video you see an explanation of what the Reformation actually was and how it got its grip, two sixteenth century pubs which were in the thick of the action, a priest hole, a secret passage, the well of St Cybi – a fifth century holy relic, the remains of secret hidden religious paintings, the ancient town of Monmouth and its thirteenth century fortified bridge over the river Monnow
The pretty little church of St Curig’s in Porthkerry is peaceful now, but it bears the scars left by a secret cult that operated there. They were branded as ‘Heretics’ so led a clandestine life.
As much as the movement was once rife throughout post-reformation Britain, it fizzled out in most parts. But here in Porthkerry it may have prospered for over 200 years.
Who were these people? What put them at odds with the established church? And what is the significance of the emblems they carved into the tombs and the door?
This video is from the ‘History of the Vale of Glamorgan’ series. Written, presented and published by Welsh author and historian; Graham Loveluck-Edwards. Author of the book ‘Legends and Folklore of Bridgend and the Vale’ which is published by Candy Jar Books LTD (Cardiff). In this series of short videos, I examine some of hidden history on our doorsteps, talk about what went on, what it meant and how it sat in the context of the wider history of Wales. I hope you enjoy them. And if you do, please subscribe to this channel and share them on social media.
The Old Swan Inn and the White Hart in Llantwit Major
What’s the oldest pub in Llantwit Major? What links it to Britain’s first educational institution and the most successful pirate and smuggler in eighteenth century south Wales? What did the American newspaper tycoon; William Randolph-Hearst have in common with King Arthur and his knights of the roundtable at the court of Camelot?
In Llantwit Major we have two pubs on the medieval town square with history oozing from every beam. In this video I talk about the Old Swan Inn and the White Hart Inn.
They have a chequered history in which they have been inns, shops, the royal mint and bank of an ancient Welsh king, the headquarters of a notorious pirate and smuggler and the bolt hole for some of Hollywood’s most celebrated stars of the silver screen. To say nothing of a secret network of tunnels, the ghost of a Roman soldier, Britain’s first ever school or university and its links with the legendary King Arthur of the court of Camelot.
A must watch for history buffs in Barry and surrounding areas in Cardiff and the Vale of Glamorgan.
I gave this talk to the children of Romilly Primary School in Barry on 3rd February. They are learning about the Tudor period in history so I thought I would bring it home to Barry for them.
I cover:
▶️What Barry was like in the Tudor period
▶️What was so different back then
▶️What it was like being a child growing up in the sixteenth and seventeenth century
▶️What children did for fun,
▶️where they lived,
▶️what they ate
▶️I use John Speeds ‘Map of Glamorganshire’ and John Leland’s ‘Itinerary in Wales’ as sources
▶️I discuss the mystery of the disappearing castle at Porthkerry
And they asked lots of questions!
Great to share this video with your kids if they are local and learning about this era in history.
Sound quality isn’t the best as it was recorded in an echoy classroom. If you struggle with it, click the CC button for subtitles.
The county line between Bridgend and Rhondda Cynon Taff follows a bank of rather dramatic and beautiful mountains (when they are not veiled in cloud). Their ruggedness contrasts sharply with the lush, green pastures of the lowland, coastal areas to the south. Meandering across the top of the first peaks we see, is an ancient road, now little more than a footpath. It is known as ‘the Glamorgan Ridgeway’. It pre-dates any other recognisable thoroughfare in the area, even the ‘Via Julia Maritima’; the Roman road from the Antonine period which these days is loosely followed by the A48. We know this as the Romans themselves described the Ridgeway as ‘ancient’.
In its entirety it runs from the Preseli Mountains in Pembrokeshire to the Severn estuary. There is evidence to suggest that during the Roman era, it was still possible to ford the River Severn at low tide, so it could be argued that the road actually leads all the way to London.
The part which runs closest to us rises at Llangeinor, then winds its way across the peaks through Llantrisant to Mynydd-y-Garth. It is littered with barrows and cairns (ancient burial sites) dating from the Bronze Age and some possibly even older, as well as long abandoned Iron Age hillforts and deserted villages. It also rewards the intrepid walker with spectacular views across our counties and across the Bristol Channel to the north Somerset coast. On a clear day you can see as far as the Prince of Wales bridge to the east and the Gower peninsular to the west.
For much of history this was a drovers’ pass. Used by those hardy men who would risk life and limb driving their valuable charges of cattle from the farms of west Wales to the cattle markets of Smithfields in London. At the mercy of every bandit along the way. There is an account of a gang of ne’r-do-wells from the Llynfi valley who called themselves ‘The Red Goblins’ once mounting an ambush on the Carmarthenshire drovers on this path. They helped themselves to their entire herd.
This path has been trodden by some very famous people down the ages too, and it has a link to one of the most momentous events in British history.
Usurping a throne is a tricky business. Kings liked to perpetuate the notion that they were personally appointed by God to rule, therefore assuring themselves of a bit of security while on the throne. So, when William the Conqueror invaded in 1066 and took the English throne for himself, he had to find ways of demonstrating that he was acting under God’s will. He had to legitimise himself as King.
That was a tall order, so he had to grasp at anything he could. For example, in the Bayeux tapestry there is a scene that shows King Harold visiting William in Normandy before the Norman invasion. He is depicted swearing upon holy relics that he recognised William as the legitimate heir to the English crown. Another tale he spun which is not quite so well known, was that soldiers in his army saw visions in Hastings that they were supported in battle by some of our ancient, Welsh saints. If these saints were on his side, it meant a more ancient precedent was being called up on as they were contemporary with the ancient Britons, and King Harold, after all, was of Saxon decent.
One of the first things William did as King of England to cement this story, was to go on a pilgrimage to the shrines of these saints who had fought for Normandy in the Battle of Hastings. This meant taking the Ridgeway to the tomb of St David in his Cathedral in Pembrokeshire and stopping on the way in Newport at the shrine of St Woolos-the-bearded.
It is believed that William was accompanied on this pilgrimage by a young Robert Fitzhammon. It was while on this pilgrimage that he first saw the fertile fields of Morganwg, in the plains below the Ridgeway. This was the kingdom he would ultimately return to invade and bring under the control of the English crown only 11 years later.
Published in The Glamorgan Star Newspaper and the Buddy Magazine Jan 2022
What connects the ‘Dipping Bridge’ in Merthyr Mawr (near Bridgend) with the most notorious murderer and highwayman in 18th century Glamorgan? 🐎💀
I have gone back to where it all happened to piece together the history of that time and bring it alive.
This video is all about the man at the centre of this controversy, the veracious outlaw; ‘Cap Coch’. It looks at
▶️Who he was,
▶️The crimes he committed,
▶️What happened to him,
▶️How murder and robbery could happen on such a scale in what seems to be a peaceful, quiet spot.
▶️And how he evaded justice for so long.
I really hope you enjoy it – running time 12 minutes – feel free to share on your socials. Great introduction to history if you have kids or grandkids who are curious about what used to go on in and around Bridgend in the olden days.
Exert from Yates’ Map of Glamorgan showing Merthyr Mawr and surrounding area dated 1799
If you know the pub; the Plough and Harrow or if you are familiar with the Wick and Monknash area you will love this 10 minute potted history. Stories of ship wreckers and pirates, and a fascinating reconstruction of how Monknash Grange might have looked when it was in its prime. You also get to see how some of the Grange’s traditions are still being observed to this day. Even if purely by chance.
This video is an accompaniment to the book “Historic pubs of Wales” by Graham Loveluck-Edwards, It is available on Amazon and all good book shops.
Picture featured: “Mallt-Y-Nos” by Carys Fletcher (used with artist’s permission). See http://www.carysfletcherillustration.com for more information and other works.
As we move closer to Christmas, our ancestors would have urged us to keep one cautious eye on the night sky over Glamorgan. Because it was at this time of year that people in these parts would traditionally catch sight of one of our most famous, and sinister visitors from the underworld; “Mallt-Y-Nos”.
She is described in some texts as a witch, in others as a ghostly apparition but she is quite unique to the counties of South Wales. She filled the hearts of all who saw her with fear, as she was known to strike down and kill those who crossed her path.
She also has quite a back story, believed to be the ghost of Robert Fitzhamon’s beautiful but cruel mistress to whom he gave lands in Glamorgan. She was known to be a great horsewoman who loved nothing more than riding to hounds. On one particularly exhilarating hunt she quipped, ‘If I cannot hunt in heaven then I would rather not go there.’ She kept up the hunting until the day she died, but when she faced St Peter at the gates of heaven, her wicked soul was refused entry. Instead, she was given a pack of spirit hounds (known locally as the ‘cwn annwn’ or ‘demon dog’) to ride with for all eternity, in a terrifying ghostly hunting party that charged across the still, Winter, night skies.
I believe that the legends of Mallt-y-Nos are derived from stories that not only pre-date Fitzhamon and the Norman invasion, but also pre-date Christianity. Most of Glamorgan’s mythical beasts, ghosts and witches do. But in her case, it looks like some inspiration also came from overseas.
As you know, I study a lot of folklore and mythology, from all over the world, and there is a trend I frequently stumble across which we may have an example of here. Once the Welsh bards had sunk their teeth into a good locally recognisable character for a story, they often would embellish by bringing in much older stories, originally based on other characters, sometimes from other parts of the world and re-employing them locally. In my latest book ‘Historic pubs of Wales’ I expand on this using the example of the stories which led to the naming of ‘the Captains Wife’ in Sully. We might just have an example of it here, and from an unexpected source.
In Norse mythology there is a legend that on the night of the Winter solstice the god; Odin would lead a team of ferocious gods and ghosts on a rampaging deer hunt through the skies above the towns and villages of Scandinavia. If a mortal encountered the hunting party, there was every possibility they would be slaughtered on the spot. Sound familiar? Incidentally, Odin was also believed to leave gifts for children as he went on this rampage through the skies so not only has this Norse tradition embellished our tradition of Mallt-y-Nos, it also fed into another, more globally familiar mythical character. Someone who also rode through the winter night sky pursuing reindeer and leaving gifts for children. But that is, may be, for another time.
When you start digging around it is surprising how much synergy there is between Celtic and Norse mythology, suggesting that these two cultures were far more aware of one another, possibly through travel, than is generally recognised.
If you are interested in Glamorgan folklore then give my book; Legends and folklore of Bridgend and the Vale a go. It is available to buy on my website, from Amazon and good independent book shops such as the Cowbridge Bookshop, Nickleby’s in Llantwit Major, Bauhaus in Bridgend and Sussed in Porthcawl.
You can also read this and many other items like it in my regular column in the Glamorgan Star newspaper. Out today.
With characters like the notorious mass murderer, Cap Coch lurking in our local history, it comes as no surprise that many dark deeds were committed in the Vale of Glamorgan. Many we know about are bathed in the murky waters of hear-say, legend and folklore. Like the story that the white lady who haunts ‘The Old Place’ in Llantwit Major is the ghost of a woman whose husband starved her to death there. Great murder story, but nothing much in the way of evidence.
So, for today’s blog I have strayed into the world of the ‘Glamorgan Plea Rolls’ which were the official records kept by the Court of Great Sessions from 1542. I am delighted to say that many crimes we have actual records for are every bit as dark and weird as the accounts we hear through the ramblings of the bards. And some of the details which were captured in these records are if anything, even more weird. Let me give you an example to illustrate.
The court heard how Lawrence Wick; a labourer from Somerset murdered Katherine David of St Nicholas on the stroke of midnight on the night of 30th March 1566. He killed her by beating her about the head “with a hook of the value of two pence”. He inflicted “a mortal wound of which she incontinently died”. Then, he and an accomplice by the name of David Jevan Dyo set fire to her body and her house to try and cover it all up.
The conclusion of the court was that Dyo should be hung, but there is no record of any punishment being put the way of Wick, so the murderer appears to have got away Scott free. Which seems strange to say the least, but for me, that is not the weirdest thing about this record. Firstly, why do we need to know that the hook he used to murder poor Katherine was only worth 2 pence? Would the crime have been taken more seriously if he had used something more expensive? Secondly the word “incontinently” used to describe how she died – the word means ‘without reasonable restraint’. So, is the judge here saying that she should have made more of an effort to stay alive?
My first quandary is a little easier to answer than the second. Putting a monetary value on a murder weapon dates to early Anglo-Saxon times when it was traditional after a murder trial to sell the murder weapon (referred to as a deodand) so that it might raise some money to be put to a good cause. That way, at least some good might come of the act. As for Katherine’s frankly unconvincing attempts to stay alive on being beaten across the head with a billhook – we will never know.
Often, the punishment meted out by the establishment of the day was every bit as grisly as the crime itself. Traditionally men were hung for murder and women were drowned. Both methods are gruesome, but some justices felt a little more was required of executing someone than simply ending their lives.
For example, the court heard how on the 5th of February 1574, David ap Hopkyn strangled his wife, Matilda, at their Cardiff home with a towel. A heinous crime I am sure you will agree. But what really wound up the judge hearing the trial was not so much what he stood accused of, but that he refused to speak a word throughout his trial. It pushed him to such a peak that in passing sentence he said (and I quote):
“David ap Hopkyn is to be put naked on the ground except his breeches and a hole made under his head and his head put into it and as much stone and iron put upon his body as it will carry and more and he is to be fed on bread and water of the worst kind, bread one day and water another, so kept alive until he dies”.
Harsh.
Given his name, there is every possibility he didn’t say anything as he only spoke Welsh. In the 16th century the Vale was very divided in the language of common people. For example, the townsfolk of Cowbridge all spoke English but the traders in the market stalls who came from surrounding villages like St Hilary, Bonvilston or Colwinston all spoke Welsh. Henry VIII decreed that the only languages permissible in Welsh courts were Latin and English. If ap Hopkyn spoke neither then he probably did not know what was going on. To make matters worse he may even have been innocent but as he was unable to offer an alibi or make a case we will never know. All of which makes the sentence doled out to him even more abhorrent. But that is easy to say looking back with eyes clouded by modern day liberalism.
In the Tudor period, the crime that had all the male judges and magistrates quivering in their boots the most was when a wife rid herself of an unwanted husband by poisoning him. That was considered so serious that it was not classified simply as a murder but as petty treason. In 1564, Gwenllian Morgan of Cowbridge and Johanna Thomas of Eglwysbrewis were found guilty of killing Gwenllian’s husband; Maurice Dee, by feeding him ‘Ratsbane’ concealed in a pudding. In passing sentence, the judge instructed that that they “shall be burned to ashes”.
Graham Loveluck-Edwards.
If you are interested in the history of the Bridgend and Vale of Glamorgan area, why not give my book a go? It’s all about the history, the many legends, and the abundance of folklore of the area and is called ‘Legends and folklore of Bridgend and the Vale’. Available from all good independent book shops, Amazon, or direct from the author at http://grahamloveluckedwards.co.uk
Formidable defensive walls at Ewenny PrioryThe gate house at Ewenny PrioryEwenny Priory, Ewenny (Near Bridgend) Vale of Glamorgan
Ewenny Priory is recognised by countless textbooks as the finest example of unmodernised, Norman ecclesiastical work in Britain. But despite its renown, it still holds many secrets. Not least of which, why a place supposedly built to house just 12 monks and a prior is quite so big? And given that the principal pursuit of those monks was study, scribing and worship, why was it built like a mighty fortress?
To get to the bottom of all that, we need to know something about its benefactor; Maurice De Londres and what he is likely to have had in mind when he commissioned it.
Even by the standards of other Norman, warrior knights, De Londres was a brute. He had a fearsome reputation which was dramatically encapsulated when he decapitated Princess Gwenllyan of Dehaubarth in Kidwelly. He was certainly not known to be a godly man.
He had always intended to build a mighty castle in Ewenny to provide the local Norman lordships with what scholars have ever since described as a “quadrilateral defence” of the main crossing points of the Ewenny and Ogmore rivers. With Coity and Newcastle to the North, and Ogmore and Ewenny to South. But if that was his plan, what persuaded him to instead build what we still describe today as “a priory”, a place fundamentally intended to be “a house of God”?
There is a commonly held belief that at some point, De Londres built the priory as a way of atoning for his former sins (just as Richard De Glanville did when he financed the Abbey in Neath). Call me cynical, but I am not altogether convinced by that theory. I believe that instead, his true motivation was a decree issued by Pope Honorius II himself, dated 12th April 1128 (six years after work had begun on the site). It threatened De Londres that if he did not “restore and make good whatever lands, tithes, obligations, or other valuables he had appropriated from his mother church…” – that he would be ex-communicated. In other words, De Londres had clearly plundered a pre-existing monastic building on the site and had already begun building a castle on it. But the Pope wanted it back.
There are records of this older site. The 12th Century “Book of Llandaff” lists a Celtic cell dedicated to the early Welsh saint, St Eguenni in the area. The fact that the pope had threatened De Londres with ex-communication, a fate of social disgrace from which a nobleman could not recover meant he had made De Londres an offer he could not refuse.
To say that De Londres was reluctant would be an understatement, so he built what was fundamentally the fortress he was going to build anyway but to appease the Vatican, annexed it to a priory cell and turned over its custody to the Benedictine order of St Peter at Gloucester Abbey. Hence its size. It needed to be big enough to house 13 monks to keep the pope happy, plus a detachment of men-at-arms to help De Londres subdue the troublesome Welsh.
It seems that beyond the Vatican, there was little pretence of what he had done. King Edward I stationed troops at the priory to assist with his invasion of West Wales, so he clearly knew of its intended purpose. And nearly 200 years later, when Owain Glyndwr laid siege to Coity Castle in 1405, King Henry IV stayed and launched his counterattack from Ewenny Priory. So even he knew that this priory was a castle really and only a priory in name. There is evidence to suggest that the King was also compliant in the deception as he went on to nominate Hugh Morton, the Prior at Ewenny at the time, to be appointed the next Abbot of St Peter’s Gloucester. A huge promotion for him and doubtless a reward for maintaining the pretence of what Ewenny Priory really was if the Pope ever asked.
Graham Loveluck-Edwards (published in the Glamorgan Star newspaper 18 November 2021)
If you are interested in the history of the Bridgend and Vale of Glamorgan area, why not give my book a go? It’s all about the history, the many legends and the abundance of folklore of the area and is called ‘Legends and folklore of Bridgend and the Vale’. Available from all good independent book shops, Amazon, or direct from the author at http//grahamloveluckedwards.co.uk
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