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Traditions of a Welsh Christmas

The Mari Lwyd

Wales has a raft of very distinct and unique traditions associated with Christmas and the new year.

I have made the little video below to illustrate what makes a traditional Welsh Christmas different from any other. And to make life easier, below I have added explanations of what you are looking at in each sequence:

Opening scenes: When I was growing up, the site of wild horses and loose sheep wandering through the streets of rural villages was a common one. I could not make a video about traditional Wales without including a couple.

  • Week before Christmas: Busy traffic in Cardiff City Centre passes under bright and gaudy decorations, the stalls in Cardiff Market are bustling with last minute shoppers. And now is the time for the obligatory visit to Santa’s grotto in Howells. Whether you like it or not.
  • The Plygain is a uniquely atmospheric carol service held just before their sun rises on Christmas Day. Usually between 4 and 6am. The local chapel would be flooded with candlelight and villagers would gather to sing carols in close harmony, unaccompanied. I am delighted to hear that there are still some places where this happens regularly.
  • Hunting the wren: OK. I grant you, this one is a bit weird. On Boxing Day (the feast of St Steven) a wren is killed and put in a box which is decked out with ribbons and leaves. Then a brigade of men parade from house to house “wassailing”. For the uninitiated, wassailing is part carol singing and part merrymaking and dancing. In some communities people used to dress up, play instruments, sing and dance as they went from house to house, either for money, or more usually, free beer from the householder. There are similar traditions on the Isle of Mann and Ireland.
  • Holming: If you thought killing a wren wasn’t particularly PC, brace yourself. In the earliest accounts of this tradition it was customary for the last maiden in the house to rouse from their beds on St Stevens Day to be beaten with holly until they bleed. It was believed to bring all parties good luck. In more recent history it’s just been a license for children to shame their parents for over indulging on Christmas Day. As if a hangover were not enough.
  • Calennig: A nice new year custom. Children would carry decorated apples (or oranges if they were a bit flash) from door to door and sing in exchange for money or sweets.
  • Mari Lwyd: The Mari Lwyd has seen a huge resurgence in popularity in recent years. It’s one of those weird and wonderful things that plays well on social media. If you are not familiar, it’s an ancient new year ritual. A horses skull bedecked with ribbons and sometimes jewels is carried on a pole by a man under a sheet from house to house. His company knock on each door to demand entry, but every householder refuses entry, so a battle of wits ensues. Known as “pwnco”, it is an early form of rap battle. Protagonists on either side of the door set riddles and rhymes until the householder relents and lets them all in to gorge themselves on as much food and drink as the householder can offer. In case you’re wondering, Mari Lwyd means grey mare.

Many people believe that this tradition has its origins in the ancient worship of a pagan horse god, others in the enactment of medieval mummer plays. Written references to it prior to the 19th Century are pretty thin on the ground and there are similar traditions associated with mid summer in Cornwall and Cumbria, so in truth, no one really knows where it originates. 

So there you are. Some unique and wonderful ways to celebrate Christmas and the new year from the people of Wales. Nadolig Llawen.

#Chritsmas #Wales #folkore

Calennig is a lovely new year tradition where children carry decorated apples and oranges and go singing from house to house

If you are interested I have designed a rather snazzy Mari Lwyd T shirt with the ballad of the Mari lwyd written on the back (available in english or Welsh and in a range of colours and sizes. Follow the link below:

Mari Lwyd T Shirt
Mari Lwyd T Shirt

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